I’ve probably beaten the discussion about linear and non-linear writing methods, wikis, and the computer programing metaphor to the ground and you’re all probably tragically bored with this, particularly if you’re here for the next crumb of the pattern for the latvian dreaming, but no matter, here we are. I listened to the interview with ward cunningham recently, and I’ve been thinking about these things for a while so it surfaces yet again.

I’ve said a few times that I have a hard time “writing non-linearly,” that I feel as if I’m too story/narrative focused to really be effective in writing stories and essays in a modular or nonlinear sort of way. I’ve also had a hard time working on using wiki-like software as a personal notebook because alone I don’t tend develop ideas and thoughts in the right sort of way to make these systems useful for any meaningful length of time. In fact I think I started this blog (almost a year ago) because I thought that the blog was a format for notebook that mirrored the way that I often thought about things (and indeed my paper notebooks are very blog-like).

But I wanted to cover new ground in this entry. I’ve been turning over a couple of new ideas in the past few days. First is the notion of “refactoring” in agile/extreme programing. Basically, this is the notion that when writing code, if you’re not writing linearly, it’s important to go through the code and “refactor” or reevaluate older code to make it more efficient and work better as the larger program changes and develops. Cunningham said (and it’s true) that once you’ve written it once, going back and moving chunks (scenes/objects) around so that they make more sense. I’ve always thought about editing in terms of passes, and because I’ve never really written modularly, I don’t really edit modularly (which is, near as I can tell the only way to do it.)¹

The second concept, this comes from wiki “theory” for lack of a better term is the notion that nonlinear documents (like wikis) grow and develop structure as they need it. Cunningham, on the podcast said, “wikis always seem to be as big as they need to be,"² and while I don’t know nearly enough about chaos theory to be fully articulate about this, I think that this is a very bottom-up or “chaotic” system that asserts itself over the larger document is pretty powerful and useful, if you’re not fighting it. In my experience wiki’s that I’ve tried to build have all fallen down as I’ve tried to create structure before creating content, or anticipate my organizational thinking ahead of time. The lesson? Let organizational systems develop organically, even if you don’t trust this, and adjust later rather than forcing a system that probably will cause collapse which is in the end more work for less payoff than the first option.

I think both of these lessons (refactor early and often, let nonlinear documents structure themselves) are ones that I can take to both my writing and digital note taking projects in the future. Maybe these were things that you all had figured out already, alas, maybe this is why this is my blog and not yours!

Just saying.

Onward and Upward!

So at the end of the entry on friday--in short--I said to cast on 320 stitches, using an elastic method in your background color, join being careful not to twist, and knit 2.5 (ish) inches in K2 P2 bi-color (corrugated) ribbing. This time around I’m purling in the background color and knitting in the foreground or contrasting color.

But wait, you ask, “you said the key number of stitches was 344?” Yep it is. And then you ask, “Why cast on fewer stitches? and why did you choose corrugated ribbing? and while we’re at it, I think I want to have a hemmed edge or make a cardigan and not a pullover!”

In response: Hang on, I say. This week we’re going to cover all these issues. Starting today with why I’ve chosen this ribbing and why I decided to do this. Tomorrow we’ll cover the stitch count issue.

A lot of my sweaters of late have had provisional cast ons, followed by turned hems. I’m putting ribbing on this one, because it’s been a while since I’ve done a sweater with a ribbing, so this seemed like it would be the case. Also, for some reason that I can’t explain I’d never done the “cast on in the color your going to purl in” trick, even though it is in retrospect pretty obvious. By doing it this way, you’re not purling into stitches of a different color, and this keeps the ribs more “clean looking.”

Also, I think that this pattern is very small scale, and a little bit of a different texture seemed like a good idea.

If you want to put a hem on this one just cast on 344 (provisionally) with a crochet chain and the background and start into the pattern on the next row. You could knit the facing first, but I’ve always found that hems sew down better when done last.

Ok, it’s been a quiet weekend, as I half predicted. I did get some writing done and other work done, but nothing is quite ready for prime time yet. I fear that I’ll be done with six entries all at the same time tomorrow afternoon, and that wouldn’t do at all. And I haven’t posted a general “how’s the tycho doing” report in a while, and I haven’t been writing these things here much.

I know that the post of the beginning of the latvian dreaming sweater might have happened a little fast, so I’m going have a series of quick posts that explain my reasoning here. Also, if you’re interested in doing a cardigan, I’ll cover that as well.

So here goes on the report, as much for archival purposes as anything

My grandmother had her right knee replaced a couple weeks ago (those of you who were playing along at home will remember that she broke a knee cap in January; that was the left one, which seems to be quite alright at the moment). My father and I--despite cold symptoms (his) one working voice (mine) and minimal preparation (ours)--trekked across the state to visit her in rehab. Turns out she’s doing great, but it was a really good thing that we were able to visit and help her out a little.

Then this weekend my entire family has to go to a wedding. Feh. I hate weddings, a lot. Though the couple in question lives locally, they’ve decided to have their party half way across the state. And we live in the midwest, so that’s a schlep. And since my father is going to be the best man (ugg) we can’t exactly swoop in for the ceremony grab a nosh at the reception and swoop out. Two nights we have to be there. Have I mentioned that while I think I live in a pretty nifty little city, the rest of the state is… somewhat less interesting. Mom and I are brining our spinning wheels, and are going to sit around in some yarn fiber store and cuss. If I post some rant against weddings and marriage, don’t take it personally.

On Thursday morning it’s May day, which means I have to get up at the crack of dawn, put on my morris dancing gear and dance the sun up. If the sun doesn’t rise, blame me, in other words. If you’re in St. Louis, email me for directions!

Then, from the wedding I’m going back to stay with my grandmother so I can help ease the transition back from rehab. That’s another week, though I hope that I’ll be able to get settled this time.

I have to rush back here on that friday, because I think I have to work and teach a knitting class that weekend. And then. As if that weren’t enough, I start my summer job that Monday. Which means I have a lot of things to take care of before that happens. The job is cool, it’s a shame that it isn’t more long term. My main focus of this summer--other than writing another novella and knitting 3 sweaters--is going to be finding a job for the fall and beyond. No pressure.

That’s the state of the tycho. I think I need another cup of tea.

Onward and Upward!

So I’ve been talking about this project for a few days, and thinking about something like it for much longer. And I think, enough fooling around, I might as well post the “getting started” entry. You need not get started this instance (but you should! peer pressure!), but just in case you were ready for it, here it is. A proper introduction and the first little chunk of the pattern…

I want to knit a sweater with you. It’s a big project, probably best suited to winter knitting, but I’ve never let something as predictable as the weather get in my way for such things. I might need a fan for knitting the sleeves and the end of the body as summer approaches, but I happen to have one or two around for that possibility.

This sweater is like many of my others, two color, stranded all the way across, simple vertical lines, and I’m thinking a simple drop shouldered look. Maybe shoulder straps. I’ll decide later.

I know that I’ve already started, don’t feel behind! feel glad that I’m going to be ahead of you, I’m here to make your mistakes for you. I’ll be posting regularly about my progress and my design decisions, and when I’m done maybe we’ll make a “real” pattern of it.

The charts I’ve chosen and modified (a bit) are from Joyce Williams' Latvian Dreams: Knitting from Weaving Charts. (2000; Schoolhouse Press); which is an amazing book that I highly recommend. Amazing stuff. I’ve chosen a few of these charts that are small enough to memorize and arranged them so that there’s a vertical line. They all even repeat every 16 rounds. Better yet, because they’re weaving charts, the top half (rows ~10-16) are the same as the bottom half (rows ~2-8), which makes it even easier to memorize.

Here’s the download link for the pattern materials packet. And please do note that there’s a pattern on ravelry.

Coming up below the fold: a description of what’s going on at the beginning of the sweater (sizing, yarn choice, casting on) for those of you who want to get started right away… Tallk of options like hemmed edges and cardigans come later, particularly if there’s interest.

I’m designing this sweater to knit at about 9.5 stitches per inch. I’m small, so this probably works to your benefit. You can use a heavier yarn and a larger gauge and we’ll both be able to use the same numbers/proportions because of this. The key number of stitches is 340 344, that’s the number of stitches around the body. Divide this number by your gauge to get the size of your garment, and adjust your gauge as need be. If this puts you at a gauge that you’re uncomfortable with, I’m including the excel file that I used to design this with the chart, and that should help you out if you need to add or subtract some stitches. If you ask, and I have time, I’ll probably be willing to help you resize the charts a bit.

That brings us to yarn choice. You probably have yarn in your stash that’s suitable for this kind of project. Those ball of Kauni yarn that you thought was a good idea? That little stash of black and grey shetland yarn? Something like that. We’re going for fingering weight, likely, unless you need something thicker either for temperature or for size reasons. I’m partial to shetland yarn, as it’s sturdy, steeks well (they’re coming, don’t worry) and never really pill. Good qualities in a yarn. I’m however, using a weaving yarn, “Domy Heather” from Old Mill Yarns, which accounts at least partially for the gauge. I’ve chosen “Lava” (black) and Slate (Dark Gray Blue). I’m using a 3mm needle. You’ll need two yarns that contrast. I prefer to do stranded work in only two colors, as it accents the vertical lines and makes the design more apparent. You might not like these features and feel more comfortable introducing more colors. Which is totally fine with me, just don’t ask me for advice on this one.

When in doubt go with natural and heathered colors. I included some more information about the yarn choices.

So the instructions, proper:

Cast on 320 stitches using the darker color. Preferably using the Elastic Long tail or german twisted method of casting on. You could use a smaller needle for the ribbing, my smaller needle was busy in another project, so I didn’t.

Knit at least 2 inches, but not more than 3 inches of two color “corrugated ribbing.” Knit 2 stitches with the (lighter) contrasting color, Purl 2 stitches with the (darker; the one you cast on with) main color. Repeat. Endlessly.

If you want to get into the pattern immediately, cast on provisionally in the darker color, and begin knitting from the chart. You could even cast on 344 stitches “for real” and use Meg Swansen’s “Purl When you can/want to” method covered in her books.

I’ll be back in a few days with what happens next. When I get there.

I look forward to knitting this with you.

I was listening to FLOSS Weekly this week as I was running about, and there was a bit in one of the episodes about leadership and organization of open source projects.

Not being much of a programer at all--but being very interested in, for lack of a better term, the anthropology¹ of open source projects--this sparked a larger interest. Lets back up for a moment.

Some of the larger (and apparently smaller ones as well?) open source projects like Perl, Python, and the Linux Kernel are lead by sort of “benevolent dictator,” types who guide development, make decisions about release dates, provide vision, and are generally responsible for some major part of the code.² These are typically the people that started the project, though I think there are some second/next generation leaders of projects, (Matt Mullenweg of WordPress³ for one.)

And this is interesting, because we generally think of open source as being this incredibly democratic space where users and developers can all sit on the same level and say “this is what I think,” and have their voices heard.⁴ Right? I mean isn’t being able to shape the direction and tools of your (technological) experience, sort of what democracy (in this sphere) is about?

Of course it is. Democracy isn’t about voting and contentious power struggles with small margins, democracy is about a group of people making it possible for different perspective to be heard. So to put it in parliamentary terms: it’s the debate/discussion, not the vote that matters.

And here you thought I was going to post something about the current american political debacle? Pass. Not because I don’t have opinions (I do,) or because it’s not fascinating (it is,) but because there’s absolutely nothing to say. That kind of “democracy,” isn’t by this definition particularly democratic and doesn’t have as much impact on the way we live our lives as the other kinds of “micro-political” democracies that we are constantly participating in. Many kinds of work environments are democratic in this way, after a fashion, and many other small groups, like dancing, craft-related, not for profits, grassroots organizations, have strong (and potentially static) leadership and vibrant discussion, which nets a very democratic result.

I think this is a continuation of some of my earlier postings on open source, but I think will also be part of a new (irregular) series of posts on leadership, because there’s so much to talk about and so little room (and time.)

I think the major ideas that are running through my head are:

• the difference between power and leadership
• how democracies scale up and scale down to different group sizes.
• the symbols associated with democracy, and the power of those symbols (maybe this could develop into a post for the theory blog, nu?)

I really enjoy thinking (and talking!) about these sorts of political notions, but I’m always disappointed by the shape that most “political discussions” take. So here’s my attempt to take back the night and start a more frank (and productive discussion.) What’s leadership to you, and what kinds of successes and failures do you all see in your own microdemocraies?⁵

So, anyway, think about that, I look forward to hearing from you, and there’ll be more knitting content soon; I promise.

So I’m off in a few to go visit with my grandmother who has recent had a knee replacement. (Indeed this means that the blog has been down one reader for a few weeks--rehab centers not having wifi and all--and likely will for another week and some change.) While there is high speed internet (how do you think said grandmother reads the blog,) my posting time might be a little bit sparse.¹

My goal is to post the first bread crumb of the latvian dreaming tonight.

I did want to share a couple of links that I’ve been collecting over the past few days and weeks.

• sockpr0n’s schacht matchless
• This blog posting has some useful info on “hybrid” double drive setup, where you can do double drive with two separate bands rather than one band. This means you can have a finer degree of control over tension like you would with a break band, except with the evenness of double drive. Rock. On.
• y knit - I started listening to this as I was spinning with my mother this morning before getting ready to go. It’s great. Perfect length, great guys (hi mike!), nice insight. I’m generally pretty nonplussed towards the Stitch and Bitch stuff (the “consumer feminism” wigs me out, as does the hipster stuff.) but hearing Debbie Stoller talk makes me like her more, even if the aura isn’t something I"m into. I suspect I’m the last person to be getting into this (I’m generally 3 months behind on getting into new podcasts, at least), but if you’re not listening to this one, work on it.
• Tea Gadget - I got an email from the marketing department of this company, that makes this portable loose leaf tea brewing thing. I think the website might be an interesting place to start a semiotic study of advertising, and the contraption looks interesting. I’m not sure if it’s right for me, but you might be different. I think getting this email either means that I’ve arrived, or I’m officially passed my prime.

Anyway. Looks like that’s all the news that’s fit to sing.

Brownie points to the first person to figure that one out. That isn’t family. ;)

Onward and Upward!

Ok, so I realized that I wasn’t incredibly clear in my first post. I’ve since written a “here’s what you have to do to get started post, but I think that in my eagerness to get started (and for you to get started,) there’s some prep work that needs to be taken care before folks can start. So I might as well get that out of the way before I dive in.

And besides you all need time to get things in order.

Other than the beginning cast on directions, I think I’ll post a little bit here and there about other things that might be important to touch upon. Like things to consider for making a cardigan version, or tips for resizing, stuff about the design process, fitting, and so forth. I want to pace the project out so that I don’t overload you all with information that you won’t need for many weeks, but also, as there are large stretches of time when the main direction will be “knit on in pattern,” for a long time, I want to make sure there’s stuff to post. Remembering of course that my writing of the pattern depends at least a little on my knitting speed.

If there’s a question or issue you want me to cover be in touch about that and I’ll do my best to fit it in.

Here are some answers to the questions and issues that have come up (below the fold):

1. There are a lot of yarn options that will work, and I encourage you to resort to your stash if possible. There’s more on this coming, but just some options.
   • Harrisville Designs Shetland (2/8) (it’s 17 dollars--discountable--a cone at webs, though there are other vendors)
   • Domy Heather -this is what I’m using. It’s smaller gauge than most other yarns suitable for this project (sort of in the “light fingering weight” category) so that will effect sizing, but it’s a great softer, but still hearty wool.
   • Jamieson’s Spindrift and Jameison’s and Smith Jumper Weight. Good two ply yarn, great for this kind of garment. More colors than HD, and the sheep grew up on Scottish soil, if that matters to you. (Jamieson’s also makes a 3ply DK weight yarn that’s great if you want something a little thicker.)
   • A user on ravelry suggested Ruama finullgarn, which is a sturdy fingering-ish weight yarn that looks like it would be great for this kind of sweater. Since this is a Latvian pattern, I think the scandinavian/baltic yarns fit a bit better than the shetland yarns I’m prone to. But it’s another good option. She also carries some other scandinavian yarns of various weights which might work well for you
2. I ballpark-ed 2800ish yards, as a yarn requirement, but really weight is a more effective measurement. Figure how much by weight you think a light-medium weight sweater should weigh (experiment with a scale), and calculate backwards from here. A little bit more than half of this weight should be the background color (darker) and a little bit less than half should be foreground. I usually buy way more than I need, even though dye lot is usually not a huge issue with such large-run yarns, and in color work it’s even less noticeable.
3. The key number is 344, which you should divide by your gauge to get the expected size. If you can modify your gauge at all, and really do need to resize, figure out by how many stitches. If you think you can do this adjustment to the pattern then have fun, if you need help, contact me sooner rather than later.
4. There is no start date. You can start whenever you want.
5. I mentioned this is going to be a sweater, right? Pullover too. You can make it into a cardigan, but we’ll get into that later.
6. My sweater will use two colors. I’m color blind, and very much a boy in terms of dress, so I like the simple/plain (drab? I’ll accept that.) If you want to do a more complex shading, please feel free, and please do share it with the rest of us, but it’s not something I feel able to design much less support (write about).
7. Tell your friends and share the love. For real it means a lot to me!
8. Check the comment threads, they’re generally informative.
9. Be in touch with me about when you start and about your progress, as much as for my own edification as anything, but I’d love to be able to post a shout out to you all, and keep track of your progress and experiences with the rest of the project materials. I’m an archivist like that.

Thanks for your support and I look forward to knitting with you!

So, it is no surprise to those that know me to hear this admission: “I’m a tea nut.” I mean, I sure drink a lot of tea, and I spend a lot of time thinking about tea consumption and the perfect cup of tea. I also think that by recognizing addictive tendencies in my personality and directing them toward productive things, I’m sort of preempting a lot of other problems down the road.

But I should point out that I’m not a very foo fooy kind of tea drinker. I don’t like teas that have interesting flavors, or colors, I will never rinse tea leaves before I brew tea with them, I will never contemplate the peak number of brewings that for the best taste. I so don’t fit in with the tea blogger crowd. Sigh.

On the other hand, I was so fixed on a particular brand of tea during college that I always bought a dozen boxes (of 20 tea bags) back and forth, because no stores in the part of wisconsin that I was in carried this particular brand.

People on campus--that I didn’t know--could connect me and the labels on the tea bags if left one on a table or counter. I also had a huge 54 ounce “bubba keg” that I could make tea in, so that I could make it through 2 hour classes without running out, as I had gotten prone to doing with my two 16 ounce tea mugs.

Which brings me to the next part of this entry…

Like any addiction to tools and objects that I associate with tea drinking are things that I focus on getting just right. After all the ritual is important. A nice, sturdy teapot that I got at the rummage sale at a church where some high school friends' mother is the rector. A large 16+ounce handmade tea mug that a former student got my dad (sorry!). Teal Tumbler mugs for traveling that I’ve gotten at Barnes and Nobel, that are so associated with me that a professor once worked the color of my mug into a lecture.

As I’ve mentioned before, I’m in the process of trying to use more loose tea (economy, variety, quality, snobbery, environmental concerns) and fewer tea bags. So I got this Teavana tea brewer, which is a thing of pure genius. I also--and I think I mentioned this on the blog before, but I was a bit scattered at that point--a french press for a nalgene bottle.

My first attempt at the nalgene tea press thing, was an utter failure, but the second try yielded amazing results. It was easy to use, it cleaned up well. There was no grit, or escape leaves, it was perfect. I also can’t drink it all before it goes cold, which is quite alright with me, on principal. I think my plan will be to make a pot of tea either with the Teavana contraption or with tea bags (depending on supply) and then fill the nalgene after I’m done with my morning cup. If I have the tea press thing in my book bag and a container of leaves, I can make a second bottle later in the day if I run out with the press, and then wash it out at home. I think washing it out on the road would be tough, but I think the chance that I’d be gone for that long is unlikely. It’s brilliance.

My other tea-accessory feat of late, is from the container store: They sell these nifty air tight glass jars in small and medium sizes, which is great for storing tea in the house. they also have plastic ones which are great for on the go. I’m a fan. Also a lot of the imported tea bags that I’ve been drinking more recently, also aren’t individually packed so once you open the box you need something like this anyway (which decreases the benefit of the tea bag in my view.) Anyway, that store is amazing. And I like being able to choose from a selection rather than feel pressured into drinking a particular kind because that’s what’s open.

Maybe I think about these things too much. In any case, I have a couple of varieties that I’ve tried but haven’t had much of a chance to write about yet. That’s coming soon, but I didn’t want to let the knitting content consume the site whole. There’ll be more of that as well. In the mean time…

Onward and Upward!

(ps. It’s great to get all the comments and emails from you, and I’m sorry that I’m so bad about commenting on your blogs, I really do read them. Don’t stop!)